1996 Chopard Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Bi-retrograde “Piece Unique”

Up for grabs is Chopard Chronograph Pepetual Calendar

Referene 34/1237/6 is a piece unique 1/1 commissioned in 1996

18kt yellow gold case

This skeletonized perpetual calendar chronograph features a retrograde day and date display, a moon-phase indicator at 6 o’clock, and a four-year month cycle at 12 o’clock. But don’t overlook the thermometer—yes, this watch also includes a mechanical thermometer, displaying temperatures in Celsius.

The display case back reveals a beautifully hand-engraved movement, based on the legendary Lemania 2310. The case is engraved with Chopard’s reference number, serial number, and No. 1/1. Measuring 38mm (excluding the crown), the case is both elegant and timeless. The watch is about 11mm thick.

According to Chopard’s records, this watch was produced in Pforzheim, Germany, marking one of the very first bespoke commissions ever undertaken by the brand. While it may seem unusual at first, it makes sense—Chopard maintained manufacturing operations in both Switzerland and Pforzheim. The Pforzheim facility primarily handled jewelry production and case manufacturing, while high-end watch movements were developed and assembled in Switzerland.

It’s highly likely that this watch’s intricate movement was crafted in Switzerland by Chopard’s specialized team, under the leadership of Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, with possible influence from renowned artisans like Michel Parmigiani. While I have yet to find direct evidence of Parmigiani’s involvement, the timeline aligns with his contributions to Chopard during this era.

The case appears to have been made by Fricker, a respected case manufacturer also based in Pforzheim, Germany. This suggests that while Pforzheim played a role in the watch’s creation, the movement itself was likely Swiss-made.

The watch is accompanied by email correspondence with Chopard confirming its origin and manufacturing date. No box or papers.